Eleven-Strand Pearl Necklace with Hadrian Agate Cameo

17th–18th-century cameo · 19th-century gold mounting · Necklace assembled in 2013

An imposing eleven-strand pearl choker centred upon an oval agate cameo depicting the Roman Emperor Hadrian (AD 117–138), shown in profile to the right, veiled and crowned with laurel.

Carved in layered agate, the cameo makes expressive use of the stone's natural cream, brown and grey tones to articulate the Emperor's features, hair, laurel wreath and drapery. The subtle contrasts between the layers lend remarkable depth and sculptural presence to the portrait.

The cameo is set within a nineteenth-century 18-carat yellow gold brooch-pendant mounting, framed by a delicate border of small pearls and fitted with a detachable 14-carat gold bail.

In 2013, the historic jewel was incorporated into its present eleven-strand pearl choker by Best Designs Ltd., Mayfair, creating a striking dialogue between antique glyptic art, nineteenth-century goldsmithing and contemporary jewellery design.

The graduated strands of small white cultured pearls form an architectural composition, drawing the eye towards the central portrait while lending the necklace an exceptional sense of presence.

A distinctive jewel in which centuries of craftsmanship come together in a singular creation.

Provenance & History

The agate cameo, dating from the 17th–18th century, is mounted in a 19th-century gold brooch-pendant setting.

Its documented history includes PIASA, Paris, in 2008, and S.J. Phillips, the renowned London antique jewellery dealer.

On 8 May 2013, the historic jewel was incorporated into its present eleven-strand pearl choker by Best Designs Ltd., Mayfair, bringing together centuries of glyptic art and jewellery craftsmanship.

Details

• Cameo: Agate, 17th–18th century

• Subject: Emperor Hadrian (AD 117–138)

• Mounting: 19th century, 18-carat yellow gold

• Detachable bail: 14-carat yellow gold

• Pearls: Eleven strands of small white cultured pearls, probably freshwater

• Additional pearls: Small pearls surrounding the cameo, probably natural, untested

• Present composition: Best Designs Ltd., Mayfair, 8 May 2013

• Length: Approximately 36 cm (shortest strand) to 48 cm (longest strand)