Carlo Illario & Fratelli — Polychrome Necklace, c. 1970

A striking and highly distinctive polychrome jewel by Carlo Illario & Fratelli of Valenza, created circa 1970.

The necklace is composed of faceted citrine beads, alternating with sapphire and ruby beads and punctuated by yellow gold spacers. At its centre is an articulated geometric pendant in 18-carat yellow gold, set with an oval blue sapphire cabochon surrounded by calibrated rubies, brilliant-cut diamonds and small emerald cabochons.

The lower section is finished with a lively fringe of articulated drops, giving the jewel considerable movement, while the cylindrical clasp is itself partially set with diamonds.

The pendant bears the Italian maker’s mark ★ 26 AL, identifying Carlo Illario & Fratelli, Valenza.

The Illario–Bulgari connection

Founded in Valenza in 1920, Carlo Illario e Fratelli became one of Italy’s distinguished jewellery workshops and was an important manufacturer for Bulgari during the mid-twentieth century. The relationship is documented by surviving Bulgari jewels bearing Illario’s ★ 26 AL maker’s mark; Christie’s has, for example, catalogued 1970s jewellery signed Bvlgari and simultaneously marked by Carlo Illario e Fratelli.

Illario produced jewellery for Bulgari particularly during the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s, alongside jewels made and sold under the workshop’s own identity. The firm became recognised for sophisticated goldsmithing, bold colour combinations and the use of both precious gemstones and unusual decorative materials.

This necklace is an Illario creation in its own right rather than a Bulgari-signed jewel, but belongs to the same period in which the Valenza workshop was producing jewellery for the Roman maison.

Its exuberant combination of coloured gemstones, articulated construction and strong geometric design perfectly captures the glamour of Italian jewellery of the 1970s.

Maker: Carlo Illario & Fratelli, Valenza
Date: c.1970
Material: 18-carat yellow gold
Maker’s mark: ★ 26 AL
Gemstones: Sapphire, ruby, emerald, citrine and diamond

Central sapphire: approximately 10.30 × 6.59 × 5.4 mm; estimated weight approximately 2.50 carats
Diamonds: 113 brilliant-cut diamonds, estimated total weight approximately 1.70 carats
Rubies: 16, estimated total weight approximately 0.45 carat
Emeralds: 5 small cabochons, estimated total weight approximately 0.08 carat

Length: approximately 41 cm
Central pendant: approximately 3.8 × 3 cm
Gross weight: 41.92 g

Condition
Good overall condition, with light wear consistent with age. Articulations and clasp are functioning correctly. No restoration reported.